Yahoo – AFP,
Shingo ITO, October 6, 2018
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Map showing current and planned new location of Tsukiji market. (AFP Photo/ Gal ROMA) |
Tokyo
fishmongers gathered before dawn Saturday for one final tuna auction at the
world-famous Tsukiji market before it closed its doors to move to a new site.
It was an
emotional moment for veterans of the market, the beating heart of Tokyo's
culinary scene for decades, which many acknowledged had become too rundown to
support its mammoth operations.
"I'm
almost crying," said Hisao Ishii, a retired seafood auctioneer who was
back at the market for its final day.
"Today
is a sad day of goodbyes. Tsukiji tried to meet the times, but it is getting
older," the 68-year-old told AFP. "I came here today to tell Tsukiji
thank you and goodbye."
In the weak
early-morning sun, traders filed into a warehouse for the last tuna auction, an
indispensable ritual in Tokyo's culinary world, and a major tourist draw.
Hundreds of
fresh and frozen tuna tagged with their weight and port of origin were laid out
in lines in a refrigerated warehouse, as buyers in rubber boots quietly
inspected the wares.
They rubbed
slices between their fingers and shone torches into the insides of the fish,
swapping information with rivals before the showdown began.
 |
At 6:00 am
sharp, handbells rang to signal the auction was under way and the air
filled
with the sound of auctioneers yelling prices at buyers, who raised fingers to
indicate interest (AFP Photo/Nicolas Datiche)
|
At 6:00 am
sharp, handbells rang to signal the auction was under way and the air filled
with the sound of auctioneers yelling prices at buyers, who raised fingers to
indicate interest.
The highest
bidder at Saturday's auction paid 4.4 million yen ($38,700) for a bluefin tuna
-- a threatened species -- weighing 162 kilograms (357 pounds) caught off
Aomori, northern Japan, according to the market.
It was far
below the record 155.4 million yen paid at the first auction of 2013. Buyers
traditionally offer eye-watering prices as a "New Year gratuity" when
the market resumes operation after winter holidays.
'Pass the
baton'
Fish
wholesaler Takeshi Yoshida said Tsukiji had left "its mark on
history" but it was time to "pass the baton".
Tsukiji's
inner market, known as "Japan's Kitchen", will now move to Toyosu, a
site in eastern Tokyo, where operations will begin on October 11.
 |
Tsukiji's
tuna auctions have regularly produced eye-watering prices, including a record
155.4 million yen ($1.8 million) paid for a 222-kilogramme bluefin in 2013 (AFP
Photo/Nicolas Datiche)
|
"It
will be the first massive move in our history," said Hiroyasu Ito, chair
of the market association.
"We
want to club together and get through it," he told reporters.
The move
has been in the works for years, prompted by Tsukiji's dilapidated state.
Wholesalers
had raised concerns about the antiquated facility's earthquake resistance,
sanitation and fire safety, as well as the structure's use of asbestos and its
crumbling walls.
The crowds
of tourists who would mob the market, including groups who lined up for hours
to win one of just 120 spots for the tuna auction, would also irk wholesalers
by interfering with business.
The new
site will feature state-of-the-art refrigeration, while tourists will be
confined to special galleries behind glass.
But the
move has proved controversial, with rows breaking out over pollution and the
loss of Tsukiji's globally recognised brand.
 |
Map showing
current and planned new location of Tsukiji market. (AFP Photo/
Gal ROMA)
|
Tokyo
Governor Yuriko Koike was forced to delay the move after a series of problems
at Toyosu, formerly home to a gas plant, including soil and groundwater
contamination.
Local
authorities paid hundreds of millions of dollars to clean up the new facility
and Koike took the final decision to move the market there in late 2017, ending
years of delays.
'Hopes
and fears'
The move
affects not only the famed fishmongers, but also fruit and vegetable vendors,
restaurants and other shops in the inner market.
"I
feel nostalgic as Tsukiji has been my home ground for 15 years. We are sad to
lose the Tsukiji brand," vegetable wholesaler Tsukasa Kujirai told AFP.
He
acknowledged the need for the move but said he was torn between "hopes and
fears" about the new site.
The final
day of the market looked much like any other in the decades since it opened on
the site.
 |
Hundreds of
fresh and frozen tuna tagged with their weight and ports of origin were
laid
out in lines as veteran buyers in rubber boots quietly inspected the wares (AFP
Photo/Nicolas Datiche)
|
Cars and
small "turret trucks" used by vendors whizzed along the roads around
the market, which was full of buyers.
As the
market closed at noon, workers busily mopped the empty floor after the auction,
while hundreds of tourists flocked to the gate, taking pictures of the market's
nameboard.
"It's
so sad to hear that this very popular and interesting tourist spot will be
closed," said Rodolfo Hernandez, a 28-year-old graduate student from
Mexico.
The
so-called outer market, with brick-and-mortar shops selling everything from
seaweed to coffee, will remain after the move.
But the
warehouses that housed vendors and additional shops and restaurants are
expected to be levelled to make way, initially, for a transport depot for the
2020 Olympic Games.
Beyond
that, Koike has suggested the site could be transformed into a kind of culinary
theme park, commemorating the market's colourful history.